Finished off the Rat Ogre with a smattering of Flesh Wash to make rust, followed by Mithril Silver highlights. A couple of small details, like some rivets and smaller plates, were given a coat of Burnished Gold, to create a more patchwork appearance to the metal areas. This was all finished off with a highlight to the green areas, using a mixture of Goblin Green with a little Skull White added.
I also decided to make a start on painting my converted Assassin, as well as the Warlock Engineer, Warpfire Thrower and Plague Wind Mortar from Island of Blood. So far only the base colours have been done, Bestial Brown drybrushed over a black undercoat, followed by Khemri Brown, Mithril Silver, Elf Flesh and Goblin Green areas blocked in.
Still, the clan grows.
A quick one. Cable glued to the body, as well as glued the whole thing to the base. Also applied basing mixture.
I was going to start painting the Gutter Runners, and then remembered that I have run out of Bestial Brown. I would like to avoid buying Games Workshop Bestial Brown again, so anyone have suggestions on a good replacement?
Instead of painting, I decided to finally start working on some of the other Island of Blood miniatures.
More, and gradual, progress on the next Rat Ogre/Heavy Loader. I have decided to make this one a little different, and give it only one active arm. The other will be this, a part of an old toy that I long since forgotten the name of. It only just fit into the arm join of the Killa Kan, so I decided to hedge my bets by strengthening the attachment. I filled the hole with Milliput, and inserted a small length of brass rod. Then I drilled a hole into the machines body.
I also drilled out the end of the piece, as well as put leftover Milliput into the other hole (likely needed for casting) in the body.
Using a small piece of plastic sprue offcut, I shaved it down into a rough rock shape. This I inserted into the second Milliput filled hole, to become a warpstone power source. I also cut a length of wire from glued that into the hole I drilled into the bottom.
While that all dried I moved onto the machine. Using plasticard, armour plates from the Ork Trukk kit, and an old Space Marine Rhino handle I detailed the front and top of the body.
With everything dried, I glued the arms to the body. I also attached a couple of smoke stacks from the Killa Kan kit, cutting the spikes off to make it less Orky. Once this is all dried I will attach the other end of the wire.
There has been a notable absence, I realise that. Sometimes the real world and building tiny men don’t always sync up terrifically.
Squeezed in some work on the Rat Ogre/Heavy Loader this weekend though. Used the middle ‘dish’ section from a Mega Gargant Weirdboy Tower arm as part of the engine top section. I then glued on a rectangular piece of plasticard above it, to cover the top section.
For this model, I have decided that the Skaven pilot won’t be visible. So I built this little window for him to see out of from plasticard strips.
At the moment I am toying with just attacking one arm. This one is made from one of the Killa Kan arms, with the cut down end of a Mega Gargant Lifta Droppa arm attached. I think it is some kind of claw arm, kind of like in a skill tester.
I doubt I’ll get a chance to do any more during the week, but hopefully I can muster up an update of some substance.
Based the Gutter Runners today. Now I am just waiting for them to dry, then I can basecoat them and begin the painting stage.
While I am waiting I decided to start on the next Rat Ogre/Heavy Loader. I cut the side panels, leg sections and feet from one of the Killa Kan sprues.
I cleaned up all the pieces, including one of the engines I cut off. Then I glued the legs and engine together.
With the engine dry enough to handle, I glued it to the two side panels. They wouldn’t fit together exactly, and I had to trim a couple of the details off of the corner of the engine.
Again, with the engine and side panels dry enough to handle, I glued the legs on. I did a dry run with the feet position before I glued those on too. It is standing on the base in the photo, but isn’t actually glued on yet. It it there to give me an idea of where it will be placed on the base.
Hello, um, Inane Couragers. Inane Couragans. InCoittes?
I have been sent a question which I thought warranted its own post.
hi there sorry to bother u with such a noob question but here it goes. me and my gf are new to warhammer (well i used to play a little when i was younger) i got the island of blood box set and was wondering the best way to stick the rat orges to their bases as there are no holes or slots but they have a peg in each foot i know im being really dumb here and probably missing something really obvious but please could you help me sir
First of all, hi there Allan! Welcome (back) to Warhammer. And nice work on getting the girlfriend interested. Just don’t expect her to let you call her Teclis in the sack.
Your question. It is really quite simple. First, figure out roughly where you want your Rat Ogre to stand. Just flip the monster base over on a flat surface, so the little cylinders are all facing towards you. Take your Rat Ogre and slot his peg into one of the cylinders. Move him around and try some different placements until you feel like it is the position you want. Take note of which hole you have inserted it into.
Ok, there are two ways to do the next bit. If you have a pin vice, or similar small drill bit, then you can just drill the hole out while it is flipped over. If you only have a hobby knife then it is a little more difficult. Make a small X cut in roughly in the centre of the hole, enough so that you can get purchase with the point of your knife. Gently twist the knife so that the blade spins 360 degrees on its point. Gradually you will begin to cut a circular hole into the base.
You may have to hold the base slightly up off of the surface it is on. Otherwise when the blade point cuts right through the plastic you can snap the end off on the surface underneath. And a hobby knife without a point on the end is no good. Keep twisting the knife until you have created a hole just big enough for the peg to slot into.
Obviously the drill option is the wisest choice, but as long as you are careful you can try the hobby knife method.
I hope this helps.
Detailed the driver of the Rat Ogre/Heavy Loader today.
Meaning the second Heavy Loader is finished. The Rat Ogres are almost a usable unit! They are missing at least one other Heavy Loader, and one other thing.
That thing being this guy, a Packmaster. Whipping machines into battle seems a little, stupid. So to represent the reach I am giving him a pistol. He will also have a book of shipping information, as well as a transmitter and microphone to contact and direct the Heavy Loader drivers. Finally, he will be wearing a brimmed helmet stolen from a Bretonnian model. Saftey first when around heavy machinery!
Today was a public holiday here. Not just that, but the first public holiday where I haven’t had to do something or go somewhere. Rejoice!
So I spent it finishing off my Globadiers.
As well as started painting my Rat Ogre/Heavy Loader. Here he is after his base coat has dried.
Just for the hell of it, here he is compared against my earlier concept model. Surprisingly, they rank up fine.
After a coat of Mithril Siver, Bestial Brown and Khemri Brown.
Here it is after a Bedab Black wash, Elf Flesh on the skin and Tin Bitz used to pick out parts of the machine.
Flesh wash has been used to create the rusted effect, while pipes and other details have been picked out in Emerald Green. The brazier has been painted silver, and then had a layer of Amethyst Purple added. So that is the base colours done, and now the minor details and highlighting needs to be added.
Lo! Back to attacking the skaven. Gape in wonder!
Layed some more base colours onto the Globadiers. Most of my time as spent finishing up something else, though.
Which would be this. I am happy with how this is looking. The magnets could stand to be a little smoother, so I might give them one last layer of Milliput. Otherwise, this bad boy is ready for undercoating.
And for all you pervs, a rear shot.